The Kaikoura Coast Track

This track is across private land, which was once a large, 57,000 hectare farm. It has been split up for family members and for other private farms. The Macfarlands have owned this land for over 130 years, and since 1968 began developing this track. They eventually built accommodations at the starting point (The Staging Post on Hawkswood Farm) and shelters along the track. If all the tramps in New Zealand were as well organised and comfortable as this, there would be too many people tramping. As it is, this track is limited to 10 people per day and the postal carrier transports your larger pack to the next night's accommodation. Too cool.

There were only 2 other people who tramped with me, so the accommodations were easy to work out and we shared snacks and libations. Beer at the accommodations was only $2 a can, so what the heck. We covered 12 km per day in about 6 hours, including a 1 1/2 hour lunch break. There were some hills to climb and a 642 meter mountain, but it was the norwesterly wind that proved the biggest obstacle. When we were on the ridges, the wind made it very hard to stand up, and when a gust would blow past, we almost fell over because we had to recover so quickly from our leaning position.

Most of the track was gently walking, over a well-laid out pathway with ample signage and well-sited shelters for terrific views as we ate a leisurely lunch. A gas-fired cooker was available for boiling water, and each shelter had a flush toilet.

From open paddocks (fields to you and I) to tussocked hills to fern gullies, the terrain was varied enough to hold our interest.

The yellow above is flowering broom, a variety which is not native to NZ. It is spreading rapidly, but does bring with the benefit that it is an excellent nitrogen fixator. This makes it useful when planting trees, as it shades and nurtures the young plants. In fact, an American has bought up some land (at very low prices) and planted redwood within the broom. Although the harvest is a ways off, it should prove to be an excellent investment. But it was the first night's lodging that simply blew us away.

View from the picture window.

Paul and Helen making the best of our humble lodging.

The second day we walked for 2 1/2 hours along the beach. No dolphin, but we did encounter two seals. This one was napping when we approached. It is best not to get between one and the sea.

After the beach, it was all uphill. Mt. Wilson, with the east coast in the background.

Mt. Wilson has a short saddle with a slightly lower peak off to the west.

The second night's accommodation. The name is Maori, and is pronounced something like "FAR-ray." It means "house."